The edges looked a bit frayed, but not as dodgey as some I’ve seen. There’s some visible wear on the teeth, but I didn’t see anything totally out of whack… no visible major separation. I did peel back the timing cover to look at the belt itself. Is it at all possible that the immobilization security system went nuts and is shutting down the fuel injectors or something? I had something similar to that happen on an Oldsmobile Alero a while back.Īny ideas/suggestions for a shade-tree mechanic that’s starting to doubt his creds to even turn a wrench anymore?Įvening, Toyota! Thanks for the quick response! The interval on that belt is 50,000-60,000… so it’s over 2x overdue! If it’s not the timing, then I’m really suspecting the ECU might’ve been cooked. I’m starting to suspect that the car somehow slipped time… if the plugs were never changed, odds are the timing belt wasn’t either. I’m sure I tinkered around with it a bit and did more than this, but I just can’t recall it right now.
![jetta 2.0 coolpack jetta 2.0 coolpack](https://e345d83943122432250a-6a9cf06ea94448cea5ebc77d7ebe292e.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/ECS/Virtual_Car_Show/Fitment//Eduardo_Rodriguez/Eduardo_Rodriguez_2.jpg)
The relays are good (I think), as the fuel pump activates and does its thing.Īfter all this, I’m out of ideas. All the fuses relating to the ECU are good. Now I went in after the fuses and relays. Spraying some starter fluid into the airbox yields no results… not even a burp or a backfire. Hand was numb for five minutes afterwards. I know there’s spark, as plug #1 knocked me on my ass when I was checking it. Found a breach in the air pump’s line, and patched that up. I verified all my connections, both coolant and electrical. When this failed to get things rolling, I started back-tracking. This confused me, as I didn’t see how the Transmission Control Module could have anything to do with the previous codes or parts. The CEL popped on and gave a NEW code: P0865. this was relatively easy, as only the air pump had to move.Ĭleared the codes and tried to start… crank, no start. This sucked, as it required moving of the air pump, removal of one or two coolant lines, and then removal of the oil filter as the sensor was stuck behind and a little to the right of said filter and I needed the real estate.ģ) When 1 and 2 didn’t fix the issue, the next was the coil pack. Since plugs and plug wires didn’t do it, the next indicated culprit was the crankshaft position sensor.
![jetta 2.0 coolpack jetta 2.0 coolpack](https://images.fitmentindustries.com/web-compressed/1053964-11-2010-gti-volkswagen-base-hr-lowering-springs-vmr-v710-custom.jpg)
043 This sucked, as the air intake manifold had to come off to get at the buggers.Ģ) Crankshaft position sensor. The electrode had been burned away to the point where it gapped out at. The spark plugs had been in there for 145,000 miles and showed it.
![jetta 2.0 coolpack jetta 2.0 coolpack](https://www.motorbiscuit.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Denso-coil-on-plug-ignition-coils.jpg)
Here are the actions I’ve taken to try and address the issue:ġ) Plugs and Plug wires. It started when my co-worker brought his badly misfiring Jetta to me on Friday night.įirestone was going to charge him 2300 dollars to replace plugs and wires and coil pack… to which I promptly called BS. Down the rabbit hole I went! Blew my entire weekend on this thing, and got bupkus to show for it.